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July 28, 2009

Remembering Magic

When I was in High School, I had the coolest job. I worked at a magic shop called "The Magic Magic Shop," located in Los Alamitos, California. The Magic Magic Shop is no longer with us. It was located in a small strip mall, which was torn down some years ago to make room for a Burger King. I will occasionally drive past the location and when I do I am overwhelmed with nostalgia, a symptom of my recently acquired middle-age. If I were to ever write my own coming of age story (and please just shoot me if I do), half of the story would take place at The Magic Magic Shop.

At that time, The Magic Magic Shop was the HQ for The Long Beach Mystics, a local magic club with an astonishing history and an international reputation. This was a club for magicians under 21, a surprisingly disproportionate number of whom, compared to clubs like it all over the world, went on to professional careers in magic. It is not an exaggeration to say that, within the magic world, The Long Beach Mystics are renowned.

On the very same day I was hired to work at the shop, I was also made Vice President of The Mystics, pending my "audition" in front of club members. It is fair to say that The Mystics were, though active and still developing professional-level talent, past their prime by then. The stockroom in back of the shop had been converted into something of a clubhouse, complete with a small stage where members could perform for each other.

With my hands shaking terribly, I mumbled through my audition with a series of rope tricks. My "patter," the things I said during my routine, had to do with owning a pet rope named Fred. My routine contained more excruciatingly bad jokes and puns than it did slight-of-hand skill (e.g. "Oh, Fred is being Knotty again").

For reasons that can only be associated with the narcissistic delusions of an adolescent, I continued developing this routine and eventually won first place in a magic contest. It should be noted that the only other competitor in my age bracket was a guy who did party magic for children and tipped his young volunteers a dollar as they left the stage. One of the judges actually wrote on my score sheet that if I won, it would say more about my competition than it would about my act. I scored points for being generally affable on stage and technically competent, but the tricks I performed were not difficult.

The competition was video taped, but I have been told that the video was lost or taped over long ago. For this, I give thanks to the magic gods, not only because the jokes were so awful, but because I was wearing black Angel Flight pants, a white dress shirt unbuttoned to mid-chest and with the collar laid flat, a black vest, and brown suede shoes. My hair was down to my shoulders.

A true multi-use facility, The Magic Magic Shop was also home to the Wait Wait Wait School of Juggling, founded by the shop's manager, Randy Pryor. I learned to juggle and then became an assistant instructor, which meant I dragged all the equipment out and put all the equipment away. From fellow students I learned to ride a unicycle and several times rode a 6 foot unicycle from my home to work at the magic shop, 4 1/2 miles away. This, by the way, is an activity I do not recommend. It was either the unicycle or walk, and every time I did it I arrived at the shop swearing I would never do it again, and walking bow legged.

The Magic Magic Shop was owned by Stan Allen, now publisher of Magic Magazine, the magic industry's most successful publication and host of Magic Live, a trade show for magicians that sells out. Stan Allen was one of my first mentors, not in magic, but in life, along with the shop manager, Randy Pryor and magician Michael Weber.

Aside: Trying to find a URL to send you to for Michael Weber is surprisingly difficult, given his success as a movie consultant through a company he founded with magician Ricky Jay called Deceptive Practices, and his corporate speaking and entertaining, and his career as an author...but it is strangely appropriate to Michael, who often came and went from The Magic Magic Shop with a random ninja-ness. Numerous times he walked quickly into the magic shop, almost always when I was the only person there, to perform some card or coin trick he was developing. After executing the trick, every time successfully as far as I knew, he might say "hmmm," or "ah, yes" or some such thing and then leave without further comment. Michael was, and I suppose still is today, one of the cool kids who enjoyed the company of not-so-cool-kids. It's not that links don't exist for Michael (Google "Michael Weber magic"), it's just that none of them really capture him...and that, I'm sure, intentionally or not, is the point.

It was while working at The Magic Magic Shop that I learned to throw a playing card, thanks to a book written by the aforementioned Ricky Jay and some lessons from friend Ken Hada. It is a skill I retain and that one day will, I am certain, save my life. The shop was the scene of several brutal card fights that often left small welts wherever I took hits to exposed skin.

My senior year in high school we moved to San Jose, California. I found a magic shop near our house to hang out in, and was generally accepted by the locals, but I was just "one of the regulars" and eventually my interest waned.

I can still manage a few slight of hand tricks for my kids, and even wow them with something now and then, like I did this morning when I correctly predicted which card my daughter would pick. If you know how these things are done, you'll note that I keep it simple. One thing that Michael Weber taught me, and that I've used in many ways outside of magic, is that the effect is what matters, the experience of your audience. Your physical dexterity as a magician matters only to the extent that it serves the effect.

I have yet to show my daughters my rope tricks, however. I can still perform them, but I don't have much left up my sleeve anymore, so I'm holding them in reserve.

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July 20, 2009

Specialty by Association?

Not long ago I bumbled a Twitter exchange regarding Smuckers/Folgers and Dunkin Donuts (#anothermiketweetfail). Fortunately, the coffee roaster I was trying to have an exchange with was kind enough to ignore my stuttering tweets and asked me a question: Why is Dunkin Donuts a member of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA)? He wrote that their coffee is “far from special.”

I replied that I no longer worked or spoke on behalf of SCAA (and I only mentioned that because I wanted it to be clear that anything I had to say would not be in any official capacity or the view of the SCAA) but would be happy to provide an answer over email because the answer was long. The roaster did not take me up on my offer, sensing, no doubt, the verbosity of which I am capable. I decided to answer his question here.

I have been asked this kind of question dozens of times over the years and touched on the topic once in an article titled Righteous Coffee. My response here is not necessarily specific to the most recent inquirer.

Dunkin Donuts is a member of SCAA because they can be a member and why wouldn’t they? SCAA does not and has never policed its membership. In fact, this is dangerous ground for a trade association to tread and it places an organization many steps closer to engaging unintentionally in restraint of trade. It’s not impossible, but would require a lot of legal monitoring of association activity, especially within committees.

Add to this the expense of monitoring the membership to ensure everyone who says they are “specialty” is specialty and we’re looking at a significant bureaucracy. It would be an expensive implementation and what value would it return to members? At best, it would equate to a meaningless “certification” of specialty coffee companies; meaningless, because it would be impossible to truly enforce.

There are other routes, like having people sign a commitment or pledge, but, again, meaningless at the end of the day and what value does the activity return to members? I agree with the philosophy of those who founded the SCAA: They decided they would be coffee clerics rather than coffee cops.

It is true that many companies that may or may not import and/or roast and/or serve coffee that scores 80 plus on an SCAA cupping form join SCAA, and some of them do so only to bask in the collective glory, to be “specialty by association.” But I would be cautious about calling them out within the industry because roasters who live in glass houses should use a de-stoner. If you call them out as part of your formal and informal marketing efforts, that’s another topic. It’s not my style, but if that’s how you roll, that’s how you roll.

Even with the SCAA and other cupping forms in use, specialty cred is often in the eye of the beholder and on the tongue of the customer. For every roaster who points to another roaster and says “not special,” there is someone pointing at him and saying the same thing. I know many roasters who think that flavored coffee could never be considered specialty coffee under any definition, or coffee with chicory, or coffee more than five weeks out of the roaster, or coffee without a born on date, or any coffee at all grown under (pick an altitude) or on (pick a cultivar). On the other hand, I know roasters who insist that their Indonesian coffees are specialty even though they do not score 80 plus on the SCAA cupping form.

Because I did not occupy a competitive position within the coffee industry for many years, I was often given access by companies to information about their coffee, including buying specs and cupping scores, etc. Even though I no longer occupy a wholly neutral position in the industry, I still honor implied and stated confidentiality from those years. But I can tell you this with absolute confidence: many of the companies that we all consider “less than specialty,” or assume to be “far from special” have the same or better, and certainly more consistent, green buying specs than the majority of those who do not hesitate to claim the descriptor of “specialty” coffee roaster.

At the same time, many many many “specialty” coffee roasters regularly compromise their stated standards when it comes to the quality of green coffee they purchase. Sometimes they are simply surviving, sometimes they are being “practical” with their product mix given the highly variable needs of their customer mix, and sometimes, too many times in my opinion, roasters actually believe that a mediocre green coffee becomes a specialty coffee inside their roaster because they are genius with fire.

The SCAA can and does develop and publish standards but they do so as clerics and not as cops. And there is no guarantee that adhering to these standards will make you successful. But adhering to these standards does help define who you are, where you’ll compete, and who your customers are. In my experience, when a company asks SCAA to define the marketplace and its players for them, it is because they are having trouble understanding who they themselves are and where they fit.

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July 08, 2009

11 Years As a "Coffee People Professional"

Today I celebrate 11 years in the coffee industry. Don’t worry if you did not received an invitation, I am the only guest, and the celebration itself consists of good coffee and an absence of things that make me fat (I love carrots, I love carrots, I love carrots, I love carrots).

Eleven years ago I received a job offer for significantly more money than I had ever earned before that time and I told them I needed to think about it. I didn’t really need to think about it, I was waiting for a different job offer from Ted Lingle, then Executive Director of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA). The call from Ted came and I took the job at SCAA, even though it was for less money than the other offer. Why? Because I knew I would love working in the coffee industry. I knew I would love the people.

Eleven years later, I can do a lot of the things that coffee people do. I can cup coffee, but I’m not a cupper. I can brew coffee correctly, but I’m not a retailer. I know my way around a coffee mill, but I’m not a coffee farmer. I can even pull a shot of espresso or roast a batch of coffee if you hold a gun to my head (though I’ll probably do a better job at it if you put the gun away), but I’m no barista and I’m certainly not a roaster.

No, even though I know an awful lot about coffee, the coffee industry, and coffee history, I am not a coffee professional. Even during my “sojourn in Seattle,” helping run a coffee company, I did not think of myself as a coffee professional. I was then, before then, and am now, a coffee people professional.

I wouldn’t have it any other way. And as I celebrate my 11th year as a coffee people professional in my own quiet way (except for the part where I write about it on this public blog thingy), I let my mind drift, stream of consciousness-style, and it spit out the randomness below.

Yes, they are unforgivably “inside” and represent only a small smattering at best. It is a desperately incomplete version of the pages and pages and pages of notes and memories I have gathered over time. I took them as they came at me and, except for a handful that are recoded somewhere in writing, allowing me to check my memory, I took them as remembered. I have the worst memory for names but an excellent memory for things such as this. Still, I will not claim they are verbatim if someone wants to take exception. I will insist that something very very close was actually said or written at some point in time and space. Stopping at 30 “items” was completely arbitrary. I mean, I have to save the rest for the book, right?

Don Holly: “We should have stopped at five stores.”

Paul Katzeff: “If I find out you went for the money and not your passion, I’ll find you and kick your ass.”

Jim Reynolds: “Don’t carry an umbrella.”

Steve Colten: “I haven’t been on that road in ten years. We use a helicopter.”

Mayor Willie Brown” “I can hear him, Mike. I’m not deaf. Now where are the Brazilian dancers you mentioned?”

Christopher Schooly: “We were like the panther.”

Mike Ebert: “I’m tired of the wine analogy. I’m in the coffee business.”

David Griswold: “Can you believe the front desk just let me into your room?”

Christian Wolthers: “I just got lucky, that’s all. I was in the right place at the right time…well, I should say, my containers were.”

Bruno Souza: “It’s called caipirinha…very little alcohol. You can drink many more.”

Paul Bassett: “The kangaroo meat adds a savory flavor that compliments the espresso.”

Marty Curtis: “There’s no such thing as a smokeless roaster. A smokeless roaster is a bomb.”

Ted Lingle: “Hire compassionate people. We can teach them about coffee, but we can’t teach them to be compassionate.

Martin Diedrich: “He’s probably right. We should have stopped at five stores.”

Duane Sorenson: “If this is not the best Papua you’ve ever tasted, I’ll pay you to drink it.”

John Gant: “It is about rogues, the elephant, the coffee, the business, the search, and about us coffee people.”

Geoff Watts: “A great cup of coffee is more than just a riveting sensory experience. It is in fact a small miracle.”

Peter Giuliano: “He asked me if I believed in fate.”

Rob Stephen: “I was fairly disappointed to discover that I was suddenly part of the second wave.”

Ward Barbie: “If I thought they would actually fire you, I would have never demanded it, you know what I mean?”

Erna Knutsen: “Write it all down, tell all the stories, don’t keep any secrets.”

Paul Songer: “What is defective to the constructionist may be interesting to the romantic.”

Lindsey Bolger: “I love you but it sounds like you’re blaming the farmers.”

Alf Kramer: “Someone has taught you to toast like a Norwegian, I think.”

Terry Davis: “The first question I’d ask them is, Do you have access to the capital you need to grow the company?”

Laura Sommers: “Well, I think we all thought you would be the one.”

Ellie Matuszak: “You see, there it is again, The Paradox of Choice.”

Mark Prince: “Ice is a legitimate part of the taste experience.”

Dismas Smith: “No, we want to start a barista guild…the coffeehouse owners can start their own guild.”

Mark Inman: “Ferguson knows where all the bodies are buried.”

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